Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
