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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.